If you can't do anything about it, don't worry about it. If you can, don't worry about it

PRESS RELEASE: I first want to update the media on a little news... On the 5th of November, our ruth/downie duo will turn trio, when our dear friend Allison Veasey, a proud Rhode Islander and fellow Vandy Alum, is joining us in Auckland. We need her spunk and pizazz as we have become like an old couple who goes to bed with the sun and every conversation has been repeated at least twice. Also, I have updated the photo gallery! And since a picture says a thousand words, you may opt out of reading my thousands of words and simply view the new photos (this is more of a warning than news).

so... now... um... day... what day are we on?.... forget it... how about a simple..y long and over wordy summary... well... your opinion doesn't count.

First of all, we should point out that the flyfishing lodge was pretty much 5 star accomodation, set at the base of the alps, with a babbling brook winding through the property, trophy stags ranging on the front paddocks, the roaring Tasman Sea but a 10 km drive away. So the question is did we catch any fish? Well truth be told... no. In fact, we didn't ever go fishing, and the babbling brook doesn't actually have any fish in it, and the "alps" were hidden behind the clouds which never seemed to run out of rain. In any case, between the cold rain and hot showers, Elisabeth and I began to understand how Portland has the highest suicide rate due to rain. It was then Marj offered that we might take a week off to see the south island and then return to the paradise we had come to know there in Hokitika for another week. After careful consideration, we decided that we just hadn't gotten wet enough and took her up on her offer... i'd like to remind everyone that we both did graduate from college.

SO... we arose in the morning having only two nights of the next 6 nights planned and a vague idea of a route through Christchurch, down to Timaru (our planned two nights), Dunedin and then back around to the west coast and the Hokitika paradise. At this point I need to take the time out to thank everyone who prayed for the rain to dry up for on that glorious day, the sun came up with us and BEHOLD! the ALPS! Thus we departed with Captain Trundler leading the way and the hopes we might find some inexpensive plot of land to pop a tent in the center of the south island's largest metropolis, Christchurch. Crossing through the alps, my geek genes I had successfully suppresed crept up as I became giddy over the ingenious engineering feat of the viaduct. However, as Captain zoomed along the impressive construction I looked beyond and was quickly reminded how insignificant man's creation was in comparison to the majestic mountains beyond. After a long debate of whether we had enough provisions to camp and forego the idea of staying in Christchurch, our overly analyzing minds decided to truck on to the big city. And that is exactly what it was: a big city. After Elisabeth successfully made the man at a hostel in town take complete pity on us, we were finally shown to a small patch of grass in the back where we could pop our tent and enjoy the night sounds of cars, sirens, and screaming people. I can't reiterate enough how much I love camping in big cities.

So after a morning of exploring the big city, raiding the free bin in the hostel, and hitting up yet another winery, we ventured on to Timaru to meet up with Anna and Brian Fahey. Ah, the Faheys! This is a couple who retired from sheep farming my grandparents came to know a few years back on their European tour and who graciously offered us a bed, grand company, and a tour of Timaru for two nights. Little did we know how much we had in common: we all went to bed with the sun! The funny thing is that from the moment I arrived at their home and heard Brian call my name from the window I felt I happened upon Grandma and Grandpa's secret clones. From the statue of Mary over the mantle to the discussions of what flowers were in bloom with Anna and the histerical jabs that were constantly thrown our way from Brian I couldn't stop thinking how much fun they must have had on that European tour. So after Elisabeth and I had gained about 10 pounds from Anna's award winning sweet biscuits (and had a large to-go pack in our backseat) we sadly said our good-byes and headed south to Dunedin... at this point having ABSOLUTELY no plans for the next three days.

The next three days: proof that worrying accomplishes nothing. Dunedin wasn't much of a stop. we mainly had a beer and people watched in the main square (octagon)before deciding we'd had enough and headed inland. At 5:00, having no idea of where we would camp, we stopped in for groceries in a small town where the lady informed us of a spot she had seen tents before. By 6:00 we arrived at the spot only to find a very large no camping sign and decided to knock on the door of a nearby home with an attached organic store to see if "no camping" really meant no camping. the couple then informed us that they accepted wwoofers and as they did not currently have any, they invited us to use their wwoofer cabin behind the house. MY GOODNESS! HOW BLEST ARE WE?! The following two nights similarly fell into place and every time rain would haunt us, a patch of blue sky would break out and then slowly overtake the clouds, never failing to produce a rainbow at some point. We didn't even put the rain cover on the tent. each day we found some fabulous hike which led us first to the most spectacular lookouts and then to a seal colony. unfortunately... no seals. [Post Script: Elisabeth at this point has given up on seals.] The last night we camped was next to the ocean where wild sheep roamed about (and pooped on unsuspecting campers' tents) and alongside multitudes of other people taking advantage of free camping. While everyone else seemed to have quite fancy stoves, big tents with tarps, tables and chairs, and fine spirits, we hunched on the ground over our ghetto stove next to our pup tent. However, it seemed we were the only ones who came prepared as we were asked for many basic items including matches and a can opener. we quickly won our share of the fine spirits.

Our return to Hokitika proved to be much different than the first stint as we were blessed with "fine" days 75% of the time. Since Marj left us alone with Tony for the majority of the time, we finely had the chance to guilt him into taking us fishing. And yes, he took us fishing! However, even the master fly-fisherman himself was unable to hook a trout from the well-stocked ponds nearby (remember the brook had no fish). Feeling i think even more guilty he went white bait fishing the next day to compensate (or prove himself). White Bait: a tiny fish half the length of my pinky and completely translucent with two beady eyes and a small vein through the center which is only found during the month of October on the west coast of New Zealand and is commonly referred to as a delicassy. So Tony cooked up fresh white bait patties and we dined in splendor on a delicassy few people get to experience... beady eyes and all.

After 5 days, we again said our goodbyes and returned to the freedom of the road, this time well prepared to camp in that majestic setting of Arthur's Pass... only this time the sun did not come up with us. We arrived in Arthur's Pass and when we asked the man there where would be a good place to hike and camp, he smirked and indicated that it was far away from there as a huge front was coming in bringing torrential rains and 130km winds. Elisabeth and I however scoffed at him and chose a campsite on the east side of the pass. The rain was torrential and the 130 km winds were in no way an exaggeration. But you know.. a pup tent stands up pretty well against extreme conditions and I slept like a baby hanging from a tree in a cradle.

Morning brought a break from the rain, so we hastily took advantage and headed on to Christchurch where we were to attempt a night in a college lifestyle with Chris, a current Vandy student studying this semester in New Zealand and whom I got to know on a white-water canooeing adventure which led me to sitting on a donut for a month last May. What can I say? After an evening of watching the New Zealand Idol finale and playing Beirut, the two old ladies pulled through and I saw my watch tick 1am! However, the highlight of the night hands down was biking to the grocery store for cheep beer with Chris and other foreign students (one of which sported a mullet).

We awoke (oddly not as quickly as normal) and headed north to Kaikoura, where the alps meet the sea and seals, whales, and dolphins abound. Loan and behold, SEALS! Elisabeth saw a seal and faith was restored. we passed on the $200 swimming with the dolphins adventure and headed north again to a familiar land of rolling plains and vineyards... Blenheim and Val and Tony. Ah Val and Tony, taking pleasure in the little things in life... and distilled grapes. This time around, Elisabeth finally met a Kune-Kune pig... the only semi-native animal of New Zealand... big, fat, hairy, and looks like its face was smashed in with a baseball bat. Betsy, you should be proud!

So that's it... long, i know, but it has been 3 weeks and we have seen the brunt of the south island and there are just so many stories to tell. And now it is nearing 11pm and we are getting up at 4am to catch the 6am ferry back to the north island so I must head to bed (not to mention the sun is far down). For the first time ever now we do have plans for the rest of the trip (or at least an idea of where we will be). Tomorrow night we will be staying north of Wellington with some people Elisabeth knows from Arizona and then we will head north to Auckland to pick up Allison on the morning of the 5th. From there we will camp two nights before heading to a Lavender farm in the far north to work for a week. We will then come to the grand finale of the trip and camp a few more nights before returning to Auckland to see Allison off on the 15th, sell the car (fingers crossed) the 16th, I fly out to Australia the 17th and Elisabeth will solo it in NZ until Thanksgiving.

While there is much sarcasm and emphasis placed on humorous misfortunes within our travels I must ensure you that there has not been one moment where I can honestly say I have been discouraged, sad, or felt beaten at my own game. This trip has taught me many things and reinstored my faith in God, humanity, and even myself. This land is a paradise full of beautiful scenery and glorious people. While I will continue to take each day as they come and enjoy every minute, I must also restate something I told my brother. This country may have alps, the bluest seas, and a smaller number of white trash in the entire country than one trailer park holds, but there's no place like home. I love each and all of you and want to thank you sincerely for caring enough to actually read ALL THE WAY to the end of this long entry. You have all guided me along the way and are the reason I can smile every day, rain or... rain.

and now... PICTURES!